The Renaissance

I’m not sure how to start this. I’ve thought about what I would say here a thousand times, reciting the different ways I would begin, how I would explain what happened. I try out new concepts and sentences in my head while I drive to school, while I scroll online, or the moments before I fall asleep. Should I sugar coat it? “I have a chronic illness, but it’s all fine really”, no, that’s not a good way to start it, it undermines this whole experience. Should I tell you all the wretched details? “My life feels like it’s been desecrated, my health is completely beyond my control, it feels like nobody believes the extremity of my illness, and if they do they don’t care” no, I can’t use that either, too upsetting. Maybe it’ll be only about the future: here’s how I am moving forward. But that leaves you in the dark about what’s happened these last few months. And I know what it is like to be morbidly curious, I know you want to know: what’s the gritty stuff, what’s the heartache. My blogs with pain and suffering have done a lot better than those of me thriving. People seek grunge, they want to relate, or even to gain gratitude for their own position. That’s fine, I’ll do my part to provide what you’re here for. You’d do it for me, wouldn’t you?

So let’s begin. Where did I leave you? I believe I was still on the African continent, in excruciating pain, waiting for my flight back to Canada to come. That was mid-November. I worried for a lot of things coming home, but one of the things that would creep into my mind most was: “what if when I get home, I am perfectly fine. What if I am just a whimp who was homesick and needed her mum, what if there is truly nothing wrong?”. I was so embarrassed to come home, the last thing I needed was everyone thinking I was never sick to begin with.

In a blessing to my anxieties, and a curse to every other aspect of my life, I remained sick upon returning. These days, there are times I feel my life is even more impacted than I would have predicted. I am in almost constant abdominal pain, I’m pale enough that it often comes up in conversation, I sleep a lot, my weight continues to drop since I don’t eat much, my hair is thinning, my joints ache a couple times a week, I get headaches frequently, my belly gets so distended after eating that my skin hurts. A lot of times, I go to sleep in pain and feeling sick, and wake up similarly. And of course, more symptoms that I just am too embarrassed to share (what if someone good-looking is reading!!). I don’t say that for your sympathy, I’m just painting you a picture.

So what have I done to try and make this better over the last 6 months? I’ve gone to my primary physician with all of my Rwandan medical records (3x), had a colonoscopy, endoscopy, and 8 biopsies (in Rwanda), had my lab results reviewed by a team of physicians in South Africa, seen my nurse practitioner, gotten a naturopath who I see regularly, been referred to a gastroenterologist (who can’t see me until late May), fallen down TikTok remedy rabbit-holes, asked friends what they think I should do, had bloodwork done, gotten allergy testing, taken every drink and supplement on God’s green earth, meditated to reduce stress, called friends’ family members who are physicians for off-the-record advice, chatted to my pharmacist, tried all kinds of over-the-counter medications, drank peppermint tea, shown anyone who will look my medical records (including internal photos from my procedure), cut out gluten, dairy, citrus, nuts, and essentially eaten only chicken, rice, vegetables. If you told me there was science to suggest cutting a toe off might help, then I’d ask you to hand me a knife.

I have pretty intense feelings about my experience with the Ontario healthcare system, so I’ll keep it short: I’m not being heard, I spend most of my appointments proving I’m sick. The specialists who can help me are beyond my reach, and for whatever reason, nobody is willing to provide interim solutions. Here is where I make this political: if you think Doug Ford cares for you and the nurses and healthcare workers who care for you, or that Ontario is currently meeting even the bare minimum for what healthcare needs to be to keep people safe and healthy, I beg you to consider how different my experience would be if those caring for me weren’t burnt out, underpaid, and understaffed.

But beyond the physical symptoms, this has been emotionally one of the hardest things I have ever been through. In late November, we celebrated Mya’s birthday. I stood in the upstairs bathroom before the party began and cried. Everyone’s going to know I failed as soon as they see me. I have a blog that showed them that I couldn’t do it. I’m not even in classes right now, I am basically the trope of the old child living in their parents basement, unemployed, no future in sight. That’s me.

But things are not as extreme as my anxiety makes them out to be. My friends greeted me with open arms, my first day back to campus went smoothly, and life returned to a new normal, socially. Seeing people I haven’t seen since I left, whether we are close or not, remains a challenge. Spilling my guts about everything that has happened to me since September 18th is personal and exhausting, but people are overwhelmingly supportive and understanding.

Mya and I at her birthday party

My school, however, was not. I’m going to keep the details to myself, seeing as it all feels a bit volatile until the degree is in my hand. But the University of Toronto has, at times, caused me more emotional strife than the illness itself. But in a miraculous turn of events that nobody, including myself, anticipated, my negotiations with the university became fruitful suddenly in mid-March. After months of back and forth, I finally was given the go-ahead: if I accepted an unpaid online placement, with the partner (The Rwanda Climate Change and Development Network) through my organization (Centre d’etude et de cooperation internationale – CECI) and worked full-time until my return to school in September, I would be allowed to remain in the co-op program and to continue with my research.

Click this logo to learn more about CECI

I called my friend Leen to tell her. She knew that A) I don’t generally agree with using university students for free labor and therefore never approved of UofT’s partnerships with companies that have mostly or entirely unpaid positions. And B) that money matters to me, and spending the next 5.5 months working for free would be a financial burden, since it would largely prevent me from getting my own full-time job for the summer. Because of this, she asked me what I was going to do. I told her it wasn’t ideal, of course, but after all of this I didn’t come this far just to reject this offer. I would figure it out financially where I could, and go back to doing what I love, celebrating the win that it was, despite the downfalls it came with.

Leen, for reference.

So here I am. This week I started working online with the Rwanda Climate Change and Development Network again, and I am so excited to be back working for RCCDN and CECI. They are incredible organizations doing amazing work, and I am proud to be a part of that in whatever way I can.

Click this logo to learn more about RCCDN

I still sometimes feel jealous of my friends who are able to live in a different country this year and work and study at cafes across the world, instead of from their parent’s couch. But I am happy that I fought for what I wanted and got it, and that despite the upheaval this illness has caused, it didn’t take this away from me entirely.

When I came home, words that swirled in my brain frequently were “there was supposed to be more“. There was supposed to be more time in Rwanda, more research, more fun, more exploration, more health, more vibrancy, more happiness. I don’t disagree with that sentiment, this year was supposed to look different than it does right now, I was totally ripped off by whatever it is that controls my fate. But for the first time in many months, I feel like there is more, it just isn’t here yet.

That’s that on that,

K8

Repatriating

I start one of many calls where I rant to Mya about how sick and depressed I am. Usually she tells me what she thinks, I agree, and then nothing changes. These occur about once a day. But today was different. She picks up. I don’t let her say anything before I ask: “I come home?”

Mya and I on FaceTime.

She misunderstands this to be a statement: “Okay.”

“No, I’m asking.” I clarify.

“It’s your choice.” She tells me, but she also knows what I want to hear.

“I know.” I say, increasingly upset. The weight of this lies largely in it being solely my decision.

“But I can’t decide,” she offers, “you’re either God’s strongest soldier for staying, or you’re a masochist. I’m not sure which.” She laughs. She doesn’t mean any comment about Rwanda, she means to have repeatedly chosen, in times of desperate illness, to stay alone in a new country, I am either an extreme devotee to my work, or I have fallen into an insanity in which I have lost sight of everything else.

“It’s beginning to feel like masochism.” I tell her. We both know what I mean. We know I am saying something larger about what I want.

By the time I had opened my eyes that morning, before calling anyone, I knew what I wanted. I just needed someone to tell me what I thought we all had silently agreed on: it’s time.

Some of the pills I take in a day to help me feel better…they largely do nothing.

Two nights before, I’d called my mum at 11:30pm Toronto time / 4:30am Kigali time.

I cried to her. I’ve never felt so sick. I’m so scared. I’ve lost so much weight. I can’t get out of bed. I’m in so much pain. Am I going to die here?

This same morning of the phone call to Mya, a similar situation occurred. I woke up in a tremendous amount of pain, exhausted, and sick. I texted my parents.

And it’s easy, from this perspective, to say: that’s ridiculous, why would you be dying? It’s a tummy ache.

But it isn’t a stomach ache. It’s about 25 pounds lost in 2 months. 2 weeks of not eating. A couple days not able to drink anything. Alone in my apartment sleeping 18 hours a day. No food staying in my system longer than 2 hours. Amounts of pain I’d never encountered. Depression from forfeiting my life here due to major illness. The looming threat of a diagnosis of a chronic illness. Never being able to complete a week of work in the job I love without having to be off. Being in the hospital alone overnight for the first time. My research being totally pushed to the side. Getting prescribed the wrong meds. Having the ‘right meds’ not work…6 times. And going through an invasive procedure alone.

So when I’m alone, in the bathroom of my apartment 11,000km away from my family, shaking and gasping in pain and with blurred vision from not eating enough, it’s not hard to think: is this killing me?

So after talking to friends, my therapist, and my parents. I knew what I needed. It’s time to go home.

I wrote an email. I started to cry. I started to gasp for air. I can’t believe it. My life, the one I’d planned, in which I worked for 8 months and got a “Co-op Specialist” title added to my degree and my research got made into a 70 page thesis, is over. The one I’d envisioned for almost 5 years now. The one I was so excited for I’d never even considered an alternative. All done. As soon as I pressed send on my resignation email, I don’t graduate with the same degree as my friends. I don’t go to Zanzibar in December. My parents don’t come to Rwanda for Christmas. I don’t go to India for work. Wanda doesn’t come visit me. I don’t go to Turkey with Nash and Karma. I don’t go to Kenya. None of it happens. I go home.

The flight I won’t take.

What is most jarring is why: I worked so hard. I saved money to travel while I lived abroad. I studied for 3 years and did co-op classes. I paid co-op fees. I got a million vaccinations. I spent months reading, writing, and researching this country. I packed diligently over the course of a month. I worked my ass off at the job I came here for and loved. I made friends. And because of this illness, that I couldn’t have prompted or controlled, I am punished. Everything I planned for is no longer in the cards.

And life isn’t fair. Boohoo. Everyone faces adversity. At least you got to do stuff while you were there. At least you got to travel. You still will get a degree. It was your choice to leave. These are all also true. I’m sure they’ll continue to eat at me just as they do now.

I keep staring at the email. I keep sobbing at the email. I FaceTime Karma.

Karma, for reference.

“I resigned” I bellow.

“Ok, ok, take a breath.” She says calmly.

“I didn’t actually, I haven’t sent it”

“Okay, take a breath, then we’ll press send together. I’ll press when you press” she makes a pressing motion on the counter in front of her. There’s nothing for her to press, but even from Morocco, she’s making sure I don’t do it alone. We’ll send it together when I’m ready.

I count down from 3, and we send it. And a wave of relief comes over me. I can’t believe I did it. I can’t believe I did it. And immediately I feel it, stronger than ever before, I need to be home.

All this time I hadn’t considered my health on its own. It was always as a consequence, never a deciding factor. So the moment I pressed send, and I had officially resigned, I was able to see it clearly. I’m in so much pain. I’m so scared. I’m so sick. I’m so much thinner. I need to go home, this isn’t okay.

I call my friends and let them know. I call my Nan. I tell my cohort of co-op students that they are no longer “my cohort”. I cry. I sit. I think.

So that’s it. It’s all over. I’m going home in a little while. Kate in Kigali is a story told.

I want to thank everyone for the support not only on the blog, but of my most recent post, and of those where I am vulnerable. Before it’s fully wrapped, there’s at least 1 more blog I want to write about my time in Rwanda. Afterwards, I hope to transition this blog. Writing it is exciting and cathartic to me, and I want to keep it moving forward with the rest of my life. I don’t know what that means yet, and you’re welcome to hop off the wagon if you were only here for Rwanda, but that’s the current plan.

That’s that on that.

K8

I Have to go Home, I Need to Stay Here

I love writers who impart what they feel, instead of their opinion, and relay the true chronology of existence: you never really know what to do, but you feel so much along the way. This is why I’ve read every word ever written by Sally Rooney, including her short stories. And why the work of Phoebe Waller-Bridge stands out to me. And likely why I watched and re-watched the Great Gatsby over and over when I was a young teenager.

Lately, a quote from Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s show “Fleabag” has really stood out to me. In a moment of gut-wrench, the main character pleads with a Priest, although she is not religious. She speaks of why she feels she needs to gain unwavering faith, and complains of being unable to find it within herself:

“I want someone to tell me what to wear every morning. I want someone to tell me what to eat. What to like, what to hate, what to rage about. What to listen to, what band to like. What to buy tickets for. What to joke about, what to not joke about. I want someone to tell me what to believe in. Who to vote for and who to love and how to tell them. I think I just want someone to tell me how to live my life, Father, because so far I think I’ve been getting it wrong.”

I think those in my life will be surprised to read that I relate to this; I will tell someone I disagree with them to their face with no issue, I hate being told what to do, and I study politics (read: I will give you my opinion, whether you asked or not – and I’m dead sure I’m right about it). I’m also an Anderson through my mother’s side, that’s relevant to the attitude too.

But let me elaborate. When it comes to any detail in my personal life, I struggle.

September: “Mum, I think I should become a teacher. I could teach Art and Geography and travel on my summers off. I would love to use my International Development background to teach young people”

October: “Kouks, I want to work in communications. There’s a Global Communications program in Europe that looks so like me. I love to write, it fits perfectly.”

Even at dinner, just a few days ago, the waitress asked me what flavor of ice cream I would like:

“Vanilla please” but as soon as she said “ok, vanilla!” I said “sorry, chocolate please”.

This is the kind of feeling that Phoebe Waller-Bridge is conveying in this scene. She could seem like a spineless pushover, but she isn’t, in fact, the issue is not that she doesn’t know what she wants, but that she has no ability to know what the correct choice is, or how to move forward. Her feeling is not about want, but correctness of desire. She can never be sure she’s taken the right path; or that there is one. This specific worry is what I relate to.

If you have been keeping up with the blogs, you know I have been struggling with being sick since my second week here. We are now on week eight, and I am still very sick. In previous posts I have been reductive of the situation I am in, the truth is: I have lost weight to the point where clothes don’t fit the same, I can’t go a full week at work before needing to take time off to feel better, and I am in pain almost every day. It has caused me immense mental strife, and this week, landed me in the hospital overnight. That is to say: this issue that was once believed to be “adjusting to life in Rwanda” is actually a larger concern that may have nothing to do with my move.

In order to feel better, I am recommended to be tested for a chronic illness that could be the cause of all of this. I am not recommended to take those tests here, but in Canada. If I leave my mandate here for more than 2 weeks, I will lose the co-op specialization in my degree, and the ability to write my thesis on my work. I will not be able to continue working here and will move back to Ontario. I need these tests done. The illness my doctors are concerned that I have, will shape my life and require future medical care by those who understand the disease, should I have it. But leaving here will mean graduating separately and with a different degree than that of my friends. And further, will make null the years of co-op tuition I paid. It also will negate the time in high school I spent interviewing and applying to this very exclusive program, and the time I lived in a city I hated, because soon I would get to work abroad and do what I loved. But perhaps most of all: the mindset that caused panic attacks, anxiety, and fear that I wouldn’t do well in Rwanda, that was stuck in me for months, which I was finally able to disprove, would be correct: I couldn’t do it, for whatever reason, I ended up at home again.

So on one hand: I go home, I stop suffering here and perhaps get care and a diagnosis that helps me to feel better. And on the other: I stick it out, maybe this bought of sickness passes for at least a while and I am fine. Maybe not, and I spend my time miserable and sick here. Either way I am able to move forward with what I have wanted and planned for since I was 17.

I will save you the specific options I have in this situation, mostly because I want privacy at this time in my decision. But this is what I am up against: go home, or don’t. Again, please do not respond to this blog with your personal opinion, I know it comes from a good place, but too many cooks in the kitchen, you know?

I am so appreciative of everyone caring so much for me, but overwhelmed is an understatement for how I feel right now. Everyone in my life is incredibly supportive of whatever decision I make, I am so grateful.

But it is times like these, when Phoebe Waller-Bridge says she want’s someone to tell her how to live her life, that I know what she means.

My strongest faith, something that I feel to my core, is that everything that’s meant to be, will be. But this paralyzes me. Nobody told me I have to go home, so I must have to stay. Nobody’s telling me staying is a good choice, so I must have to leave. I need a guiding light but cannot find it. People I love give their advice, and I remain indecisive. People I don’t like give their opinion, and I’m unmoved.

There is no correct choice, there is only the choice I decide to make. There are no options, only the one I end up choosing. There is no going back when I make my choice. There is no moving forward until I do. Making no decision is a decision.

So, this is where I’m at. Again, I ask for privacy right now, but felt that this blog helped with the whole “transparency” part its meant to portray about my life abroad.

If I choose to go home, you’ll get a blog, if I choose not to, I will bring it up in another one.

That’s that on that.

K8

African Lion Safari

Earlier this month, Laura and I lived out the “African Vacation” dream that is most associated with the East African region….we went on a Safari!

Before we get into this blog, please take a brief pause and watch this 16 second commercial. This will help set the tone of how Laura and I grew up understanding Safaris to be: beautiful family trips to the savannah (Niagara Falls, ON). I had the jingle stuck in my head the whole trip.

For some background, Akagera is one of Rwanda’s 4 national parks. About a 3-hour drive from Kigali, this park is squished into the corner of the country, with the whole park bordering Tanzania. Some parts even go over the border. This park is home to all of the animals you hope to see on a safari: giraffes, zebras, elephants, water buffalos, lions, leopards, and so much more.

The tour busses.

To go on this trip, we paid 180k RWF ($201.60 CAD) each. This is the foreigner rate – and a good one at that. This included the park passes, the driver, the guides, the photographer, lunch, an 8 hour bus tour, and another 8 hours of driving to and from the park. Its about 50k RWF for Rwandans, and a little more for residents, but these differences in prices are to be expected. If you think this is unfair, I urge you to consider how much Canada asks it’s international students to pay in tuition each year. In truth, I am a bit tired of this conversation as foreigners can get quite heated about it. But all this is to say: we paid about $200, and got a great deal and a great experience.

To begin our journey to Akagera, we had our trusted driver ready to pick us up at 4:30am at our houses and take us into downtown Kigali, to get to the tour busses. We left at about 5:15am and started the 3ish-hour journey to Akagera.

When the bus first pulled up to the first gate at the edge of Akagera, there were little monkeys running around the road, which if you know me, is my waking nightmare. I am very uneasy about monkeys as an entire species. They’re too human, and too wild. Freaky little creatures. Not for me. So that is why you’ll note there are no pictures of these animals. But I was brave and got a picture at the front gates with Laura beside the Akagera sign.

I have taken photos of my feet on the earth in almost every country I have been to. I started it in Switzerland in 2015.

From the front gate, you drive another couple of kilometers to the Visitors Centre, where they tell you about the park, about how you’ll be driving around for 8 hours, just within the park, and that that amount of time still doesn’t cover the whole area. You learn about the history, how they had to build a fence to keep farmers and their grazing animals out, and the lions in. And you learn that now is the time to pee, because you can’t exit the vehicle for the next 4 hours, until you reach the picnic area. This prompts some of us to thank our past selves for taking an Imodium to ensure our stomach can be trusted. You only stay on the roads, but you can never get out except at picnic areas which are hours apart from each other. Here we go!

We started seeing animals almost immediately.

First was the crocodile, followed very shortly, by hippos! We saw a fair few hippos over the course of the day.

After this, we started seeing lots of….ummm…deer things? That must be the scientific term. Like water bucks, impalas, and topis.

The whole way, we saw lots of this:

The mound is a termite hill. They look cool and they really are! If you don’t think about it too much. The fabric is covered in animal’s urine and insecticide, and attracts flies, so the drive around the park isn’t too buggy for visitors.
Next, we started to realize how many zebras there are! They were probably the most abundant animal we saw the whole time and are so cute and chubby in person! I could have put one in the back of the car and taken it home, but Mum doesn’t want me to adopt the stray near my work, so I knew better than to ask to bring the striped horse home.

Next we had our lunch break, where they surprised Laura and our friend Frank with a cake, since the reason we had chosen this Saturday to go, was because their birthdays were on the previous Thursday.

I teased Frank that cutting a cake like this in Canada only happens when you’ve just gotten married.

Then when we’d gotten back on the road, and the kids on the trip had inhaled their body weight in chocolate cake, we found the piece de resistance, what you go on safari to see. And they came in numbers.

GIRAFFES!

Giraffes were the same as zebras in that we saw them pretty frequently throughout the day, once we got into the area where they live, a couple hours deep into the park. It was also interesting because they would walk near zebras and antelopes with no problem. Very cool.

Next was a super rare sighting, a leopard! Our guide told us this was his 90th tour of Akagera, and only his 3rd time seeing a leopard. We actually saw 2! But one didn’t move from the tree he was in, so no pictures were taken. In truth, I don’t think I saw him. But I did see this one:

Our friend got an insanely cool video of the leopard jumping out of the tree, but you have to have a premium subscription to WordPress ($120/year) to add a personal video to your blog, so just close your eyes and imagine what the video would be like…ok?

Then we saw rhinos! A mum and her baby. They told us these were white rhinos, which you can identify by two things: the color of their mouths (white) and their attitude. White rhinos live in grassy areas and are very docile, whereas black rhinos live in mostly woodland areas, hiding away from people. Black rhinos are also the more aggressive type, so seeing white rhinos is the better option of the two.

This is when I asked the guide: “be honest, what are the odds we see a lion or an elephant before the day is over, it’s really all we’re missing.”

She laughed, “bad, not good”. She explained we were less than 20 minutes from the exit of the park we were taking, and lions and elephants weren’t known to frequent the area.

No worries, it’s still been a lovely day.

Then we got to a picnic area, where you can get out. It was like a scene from a Planet Earth documentary, we got to get out and take pictures with rhinos, antelopes, and buffalo in the background. It was magical.

And just before leaving, we saw a huge herd of water buffalo!

Then we left the park and started the 4 hour journey home. Since we had driven north in the park for so many hours, we had to take a different exit out, causing us to have a long trip home. So by the time we reached the outskirts of Kigali, and the bus stopped for a family to get off, I quickly jumped off, abandoning Laura and Frank without regret. Partially because I am impatient by nature, partially because I wondered what kind of health impacts could come for me after struggling with a numb ass for so long. I jumped on a moto and rode home.

All in all, this was one of the most fun days we’ve had, and it occurred when my antibiotics were working! Spoiler alert, less than a month later I am getting results back from the doctor that I have more bleeding internally, this time likely in my stomach, and high white blood cell counts, even higher than last time.

If you are planning to do a Safari, I would recommend finding a cheap day tour, but ponying up a bit more, to get one of the traditional Safari cars, as they are much more comfortable. I don’t regret going by bus, I’m 21 and a cheapskate, but it’s not something I would recommend if you can find a good price on a Safari car. You can also do self-guided tours of the park, but I mean I personally wouldn’t trust myself to be able to navigate the park myself. But if my Dad was driving or something, that may even be the most fun option.

Let me know how you like this style of blog, I feel strange when I just relay what I have done, and not my feelings, like I did for my first hours in Rwanda post, and the “Sick as a Dog” post. Feels less interesting I guess. But be honest! I want to know how people feel.

Next post will be about travelling to Gisenyi, on Lake Kivu!

That’s that on that.

K8

The Red Dress from Kimironko

“Today, when I came back to my apartment, the guys who were repairing my toilet had turned on netflix, were charging their phones, and had done my dishes” I told mum “you have to have faith in people because in Canada, I would be uncomfortable with that, here, I was glad my dishes were done and my house was enjoyed yet respected.”

“You have to write about that on the blog, people want to know these things” she tells me.

“I speak Kinyarwanda as much as I can in the mornings, because I have to know some words to direct my motorcycles to work, and then I come in and greet all of my coworkers with hugs and handshakes and some more Kinyarwanda, they like when I use it and encourage me to speak more. I try to learn a new word every couple days.”

“Have you started a blog post?” Mum asks.

“I met a couple of Europeans who are travelling around East Africa and we chatted and hung out at a bar in Kisimenti for a long time. I’m excited to have a social life here now, makes everything nicer” I mention to Mum.

“When are you going to post again?”

After I posted last, I actually got sicker. My intestines were bleeding, I had intense pain, and it wasn’t subsiding. Finally, about 10 days later (and a bunch of tests and daily handfuls of medications later), I felt okay. So this post has been delayed due to feeling that a lot of my experience in Rwanda has actually been an experience of the hospital, clinic, and my apartment. I still stand by what I said: people are kind and this is a good place. But I thought I’d just lay out what was happening. People responded to my last blog, saying that they’re glad I “am feeling better”. I laughed. I actually was sicker than ever and spent almost all of my time crying out of pain and depression. It was very hard, despite the support I had.

But slowly, I’ve been reentering society. In this blog, I want to tell you about my re-entering society outing last weekend. I still am struggling with feeling depressed, a residual of the feeling so scared and lonely while I was sick here. But I am starting to remember why I came, and why I have stuck it out.

The very first thing I wanted to do in Rwanda was have a dress made. The first time I looked up “things to do in Kigali” on TikTok, it showed a woman getting a beautiful dress made in 1 hour and I knew I wanted to do it too. So every week, around Wednesday, when Laura and I came to the conversation of “what will we do this weekend?” I said… “how about we go to Kimironko and have dresses made” and finally, we made it happen. 

On a Saturday morning (afternoon) Laura and I met to get coffee and debrief the night before: our first night at a club in Kigali. And then took motos to the Kimironko​ market. This is Africa’s largest open-air market. We were a bit anxious – we’d been told that we shouldn’t go without someone familiar with it, so that’s exactly what we did. What can I say, we’re 21 and afraid of boredom. 

One of the first things you see when you come in the market: beans!

The moment you step off the moto on arrival, before you’re even done paying, people are talking to you, asking you to come to their shop, asking to guide your market experience, generally wanting your attention. 

This is where Laura and I met Gorilla, a shopkeeper who goes by the name of his most sold coffee beans: the ones made by Gorillas Coffee. He took it upon himself to lead us to the middle of the market to show us the craft and artisan stands. Here is where the social aspect of the market started.

“Sister, come see my stand!” “Sister!” “Beautiful sister come here!” Okay. That’s enough for me. “My name is Kate, I don’t like ‘sister’ can you call me Kate?”. About 20 people are constantly trying to get your attention. I don’t like the term sister, it makes me feel weird, it’s a part of the culture I haven’t gotten used to. But the vendors happily oblige to calling me my name. It made me feel better. This is when I start to understand why they don’t advise freshly-landed Canadians to come straight here. You’re stared at, tapped on the shoulder, constantly given sales pitches, in a very tight space, required to barter, and called to constantly. This makes it sound bad. It’s not. I’m used to these things on a smaller scale now, so I knew what to expect. I also have come to really trust people here: I’m not worried about being pick-pocketed or worse, I know what price to expect for things, and I know how to joke around with vendors and not take it all too seriously. 

How the artisan stands look.

It’s overwhelming for sure when compared to life in Canada: my best friend Dakota would tell you I grew up in the quietest house known to man. Our favorite comedian says the houses of only children are so quiet it made her, a child of 8, want to ask: “was there a fire? Where is everyone?”. And of course, when I go to FreshCo in Scarborough for my avocados, I don’t generally have to chat about their price for a couple minutes, unless I’m with my friends and complaining about the cost of living. So it’s not natural for me, but it’s not unfamiliar now either. But it’s also really, really fun. Because you’re not worried, just overstimulated. 

We continue chatting to vendors who invite us to them and decide we should get these dresses started. Laura decides to start with asking for a shirt for her boyfriend. She shows a picture of him, says she wants it a bit big just to be sure it fits, pics one of the 150+ fabrics, and they get started. We show him, the shop owner called Heaven, what we want. He gets to measuring, another man writes down our measurements. 

We pick our fabrics too. It takes me a long time. I’m very indecisive. 

About 1/3 of the fabrics offered at each dressmakers stand.

Now we chat about price, it’s important to note that my words are often pointed and can sound harsh when written, but it’s more about the need to be clear with a language barrier, I stay light and usually we are both laughing while we discuss:

“For Laura, 45,000RWF for you, 50,000RWF ” Heaven tells me. He knows what’s coming.

“Laura is getting a shirt and a skirt that have to match and she wants it to be formal, I should pay less than her”

“But you are bigger, more fabric, more work” he explains.

“I am, but it’s one big piece, so fast, much easier. For her, small, difficult, many pieces. I will pay 40,000RWF” years ago this would have made me cry, being compared to my friend about my weight and even having to pay more. Not about the money, but the principle. But here it’s a challenge to me. At home when things are unfair based on weight, I can’t change that, here, I can make some movement. I make sure I sound proud of what I look like. 

Heaven measuring me.

“45,000RWF” he laughs. 

“That’s works” I tell him. Laura gets hers to 40,000RWF. Is it fair? Technically, probably not. But it’s not nothing to be able to have this conversation. And hey – Laura should take the deal she’s given. That part is great. Fatphobia will not be solved between me and Heaven in this market today. In total Laura pays $45.50 for her dress, $22.70 for her boyfriend’s shirt, and I pay $51.08 for my dress. 

We pay half up front, and the seamstress gets started. They say it will be two hours for the shirt, and the two dresses. We decide to continue looking around the market.

I buy earrings made of cow horns, and tassel earrings. Both match my dress being made. 

Some of the fruit area at the market.

Then we head to the fruit area, I buy some finger bananas and Laura buys some avocados the size of a small child. Gorilla helps make sure we are paying a fair price. We of course pay double or sometimes 3x that of a local, but we feel it’s still equitable given our expatriate status, access to funds, and the labor involved for farming here. We pay $2 for a dusty, small, old imported avocado at home. We don’t mind paying $1.75 for these fresh and beautiful specimens of avocados here, even if locals pay only $0.75. Some travelers here get offended: “they charge us more because they think we’re rich!”, I don’t think that’s what it is. Vendors are often subsistence farmers supporting themselves; both me and them know I pay more at the store in Canada and don’t bat an eye. In my opinion, they are not making any unfair or untrue assumption in charging a bit more. And, we have the power to barter: no harm, no foul. 

We are getting hungry, so we decide to head to dinner while we’re waiting on the dresses. We head to what is touted as being one of the best dinners in Kigali and message Heaven to tell him to take his time while we eat across town. 

Me and Laura!

The dinner is the best we’ve had. I crave it every day now. It’s Asian food, the pad thai is incredible, the tom yum soup is even better, it’s incredibly done. We hangout and debrief the day. Lots of Laura and I’s relationship is debriefing this journey we’re on together. People often assume we’ve known each other a long time, and not that we just met on September 4th on a plane to Rwanda. I think it’s because of how similarly we were raised. I’ve never met anyone in Laura’s life. But I can guess what the area she lives in in Ontario looks like, I know what it’s like to be the only child and daughter of your parents like we both are, I’ve never asked, but I’m almost certain she wore her pajamas backwards as a kid, thinking it would make the next day a snow day, and I know what her International Development lectures probably sound like while she studies. She’s the easiest person to debrief with. I didn’t know anything about her a month ago, but we know what it’s like to live this hyper-specific existence: small-town Ontario raised, big-city-close-to-home educated, and now in Rwanda at 21. We often discuss how much easier it makes this whole thing, there’s never a time where nobody understands where you’re coming from when Laura’s there. It makes all the little things easier.

Picture with Heaven when we finished!

After our debrief dinner, we moto back to the market and find our way back to Heaven’s shop. They’ve just finished our items. It takes a few more little alterations, and then we are done. We pay Heaven, chat with the vendors we met earlier in the day, take a picture, and leave with our dresses. We model them in a video to our Rwandan Mum and I call my parents and Nan to show them. We’re elated, I wore it to work the next possible day and my coworker loved it so much she took my picture. I could wear it every day. I will absolutely have another made, if not more.

So that was my return to society. And my return is just getting bolder as this weekend we are going on a safari, and we are planning a trip to one of the African Great Lakes the following weekend. As much as I am still adjusting, especially emotionally, my life is big and beautiful here. I know this is where I am supposed to be right now.

Scroll down to see the dresses completed.

That’s all for now,

K8

Sick as a Dog

I’m hanging my sheets out to dry on my balcony. It’s 8pm, so it’s as dark as the middle of the night here. The sun sets at 6pm.

“Hi!” A voice shouts to me in the dark. I spot her, a lady standing on the other side of the wall around my complex, looking up at me. She must be a neighbor from the next complex.

“Hello! How are you?” I ask her.

“I’m good, but my baby, he is sick.” She’s apologizing, in so many words, for the relatively minimal crying I’ve been able to hear for the past couple minutes.

“That’s okay, I’m sick too. I understand. I’m sorry he is sick. I hope he gets better soon” but I don’t think she knows what I mean when I say I understand. I don’t understand how it feels to comfort your sick baby, I don’t mean to say that to her. I mean to say I know what it means to be sick and need your mum. I think of how I’ve just hung up from a long cry on the phone to my mum just moments ago, and how I will probably call her three or four times today since im feeling so sick. I mean I understand his desperate need to be comforted, but inability to find comfort. But that his mum is the closest thing. I mean to tell her that if he grows up and leaves Rwanda, he will still call her when he’s sick, he will still need her the same as he does now.

“Sorry” She says. Here people say sorry when they are feeling for you. Im not sure if she is saying sorry to me for being sick, or about her son crying. She owes me neither.

“No no, it’s okay. It happens.” I smile at her. I don’t know if she can see my smile from so far away in the dark, but it feels important.

I wanted my first real blog in Rwanda to be about how I met European tourists on the weekend and we went to bars and chatted the night away. Or about how I went to the Nyamirambo women’s Centre and learned basket weaving. I wanted to tell you all about how my first week of work was lovely, and I’m feeling really good about the next 8 months. I wanted to recount how many motos I’ve taken, all across the city, and how I’ve even learned a few words of Kinyarwanda to do so.

I wanted it to be really positive, because this country and its people have been overwhelming positive, welcoming, and kind to me. But unfortunately the weekend I had planned to write about the beginning of this adventure, I woke up feeling like death warmed over. I continued my day, we got massages, a nice lunch, hung out at the pool with our new tourist friend from Spain. But I just didn’t feel right. Probably just adjusting.

I went to bed, and woke up and went to work. I felt even worse in my stomach and was so anxious. The electricity at my work went out, and I ended up telling my coworker how I was feeling: “why don’t you go to the doctor? They can give you pills to feel better.” I don’t know, I tell her. I’ve never been here before and I have a sensitive stomach, I’ve honestly been a bit off since I came. But all of a sudden, something told me I needed to go, that it wasn’t just an off-stomach in an adjustment period. I asked where to go, and went to the clinic.

“Is the healthcare any good?” I would say as a result of never waiting (I literally never sat) that Rwanda may be able to compete with Canada, or surpass us, in terms of this clinic’s care. I never expect anyone to speak English, but hoped the staff at the clinic would so I could articulate what was wrong, and everything went really smooth. They ran a couple tests. They sent me home to collect a – hmmm – sample, and I was to come back the next day.

Laura and I had dinner at mine, and I went to bed. But I started to feel really terrible. I was glad I had gone sooner than later. I asked a driver to bring me back to the clinic at 10am to get my results.

I wake up at 7am in a lot of pain and with a terribly upset stomach. I ask the driver I like if he can possibly come at 8am to get me instead. He can’t. Could he send another driver to take me? I can’t wait, I’m sorry, I’m so sick. He sends someone else. At home, I would’ve gone in my Pjs, but I manage to throw something together so I don’t stick out amongst all the beautiful dressed people. I feel like I’m dying in the front of his car. In this moment; I hate Rwanda, I want to go home, i shouldn’t be here, I don’t need to be here. Take me home.

My volunteer support worker from my company comes to be with me. I cry when I see her. She calls Laura and I her babies, I’m overjoyed my Rwandan mum is here, it makes me feel as better as I can in this situation.

We get the results: you’ve got food poisoning, but because you were already having smaller stomach issues for a couple weeks, it’s caused your intestine to become overactive and tear and bleed. The food poisoning seems to be on its way out, but the pain now is from the intestine. Don’t take anti-inflammatories, (it’s like he knows about my Mum’s belief that Ibuprofen cures everything) stick to Tylenol if you need it, and take prescribed pain killers 3x a day, and probiotics 2x a day, in 10 days it should be back to normal. In 1-3 days you should feel better.

I get my prescription, and try to eat at a cafe with my Rwandan mum. I can’t. But I at least am feeling better with company and knowing what’s wrong.

I go home, I feel more depressed than ever. I call my mum and cry to her. I call friends so I don’t feel lonely. It all only works a bit. I’m so scared of health stuff, and I feel so alone. The pills don’t kick the pain, so I take Tylenol too. I sleep a remarkable amount.

The rest of the story is just the usual kick-in-the-teeth stuff of being sick. I’m lonely, I’m anxious, I want to go home, my friends go out without me, I cry, I feel desperately ill.

But there’s been a lovely thing happening in the background too. People from my work call and text me several times a day, they know I live alone and am sick. People from my volunteer company stop in to keep my company. Even my landlords brother checks in on me several times a day to be sure I’m okay. There’s this awareness in the people around me, even those I’m not close to, that what I’m going through is hard, and I’m going through it alone. I don’t mean to be dramatic, worse things happen to better people, but the validation and space given to me is invaluable right now. My boss texts me to check in, not hoping for my return to work, just hoping for my well-being. People show they really care for me. It’s very beautiful.

So in a weird way, I feel I’ve been able to show Rwanda in its best light, while I’m in a bad one. I’m excited in the future to share about the safari i have planned, or the cool restaurants here, or all the fun activities, but for now I’m glad to share the human side. People here have shown me kindness in an abundance I would’ve never expected, but am deeply grateful for, and in a way that feels so genuine. So no, I don’t actually want to leave Rwanda. This, in a weird way, has shown me this is exactly where I’m supposed to be.

Everything in Rwanda is a test of faith: the lady exchanging my money could give me 1/2 of what it’s worth and I wouldn’t know. The moto could take me to the wrong location and demand double. And I could get sick and be very alone and afraid. But time and time again I’m reminded of what I believe to be true: people care for their fellow humans, bad apples exist but are not abundant, and those in your life want to help you more than you’d give them credit for.

K8

You Are Welcome Here!

Call me Daniel Cook: because Here. We. Are.

After about 28 hours from home to hotel, I’ve finally made it to Kigali, Rwanda. Can we believe? I can’t, and I’m sitting here myself.

I’ll give you a little run down of what’s happened so far, we’ll go chronologically.

Sunday, September 3rd:

11:30am EST (Toronto time): leave home

2:00pm EST: arrive at Pearson International Airport, finally have an excuse to use one of those cart things for big trips.

2:01pm EST: Cry because I don’t want to leave my family.

5:30pm EST: After a short delay, get on my KLM flight to Amsterdam. Now is when I’ll tell you KLM was awesome and I finally am starting to understand why people are loyal to specific airlines, instead of just viewing them as a monolith. Like, the food? Edible. The blankets? Cozy. The take-offs and landings? Smooth. I’ll still take budget airlines though when I have to pay myself – let’s be real here.

Monday, September 4th:

2:00am CET/CAT (Central European Time/Central African Time): Oh my god is this flight ever going to end.

7:00am CET/CAT: Flight lands in Amsterdam. I immediately change and wash my face in hopes to get rid of the ickiest feeling in the world: post-airplane dirtiness. It works, mostly. I get my last Starbucks coffee for 8 months.

10:00am CET/CAT: I meet up with Laura, another CECI volunteer my age who happens to be flying to Rwanda today. She also happens to be from a town about an hour away from where I grew up. The world is a very small place.

12:00pm CET/CAT: After another delay, we get on our KLM flight to Kigali. We learn the plane will also stop in Entebbe. We cackle maniacally when we realize Kigali is the first stop and we won’t have to spend any moment longer on this freaking plane.

9:00pm CAT (Assume CAT from this point on): We land, and go through security and passport check in Kigali airport. Then we get our bags. Then we meet our driver from our hotel. This all takes about half an hour. Toronto could never.

9:10pm: We get in the hotel car. A nice Dutch lady is here for work and is coming to the same hotel. We stare slack-jawed and exhausted at the beautiful Kigali landscape, slightly aglow with lights, and it’s beautiful hills and plants. I start to think this place is just as one of my favorite authors suggests all places you imagine, but have never yet been to are like when you first arrive: amazing, nothing like you imagined, exactly the same as you imagined, more concrete than you’d ever expect.

The Kigali Convention Centre

10:00pm: We arrive at our hotel, we are led through the lobby, up to the conference rooms, through the doors to a huge outdoor pool, past the poolside restaurant, down the walkway, past the salon, into a small building, out of the building, through a garden, and to our rooms. We shower, I call my mum and dad to say I’ve made it. Call my best friends (I’m so glad to be back within 1 hour time difference of 2 of my closest friends! Sorry to Sara Kallas though, as she is now at least 5 hours time difference from the rest of us as a result of our co-op placements) and get reassurance that this is all going to be okay.

12:00am: Cry. What did I just do? Why did I move here? I’m so far from home. This bed isn’t my bed. I won’t be in my bed for 8 months. I won’t see my family for 8 months. I fall asleep.

Tuesday, September 5th:

9:30am: Meet Laura for complimentary breakfast at the hotel. See Rwanda in the light for the first time. Get super excited for what else I’m going to see.

11:00am: Go for a walk down the street, aka walk down the hill. These two are synonymous in “the land of a thousand hills”. Notice there are flowers everywhere and motorbikes are abundant.

1:00pm: return to the hotel and paint in the restaurant by the pool. Have some fresh passion fruit juice.

3:30pm: Meet our team in Rwanda for the first time. Get in the company car. Everyone is so lovely. I can’t believe these are the people in charge of my stay here, this is incredible. They constantly ask us if we’re well, if we want the car to stop for anything. But they’ve taken such good care of us the only thing we request is some more bottled water for our rooms. They take us on a drive around the city, we see the Quartier Commercial and the famous Hôtel des Mille Collines. We get what our team says are the best samosas in Kigali and stop at Question Coffee, which coincidentally is across the street from the samosa place. This coffee shop happens to have been on my “To Do in Kigali” list for months now. It’s great coffee. Laura and I get to know one of the team members, and each other. The view is gorgeous, the vibe is professional but incredibly relaxed. It’s easy to like.

6:00pm: The team recommends restaurants to check out, and drives us back to our hotel.

8:00pm: Laura and I grab a salad ($6) and a beer ($2) and chat in the restaurant’s bar.

10:00pm: We head to our rooms, we hug before bed. We’re so excited by how everything has gone so far, and looking forward to the days ahead.

Overall we’re having a great time. Things are exciting but easy. People are remarkably kind, saying “you’re welcome here” several times a day to us. People try to sell us things, and are curious of our presence, but it’s never ever been uncomfortable. This is a really beautiful place, I’m privileged to have the opportunity to get to know it.

The Only Thing Scarier Than Moving to Rwanda, is Not Moving to Rwanda.

Okay, so I may have already let my loyal readers (lol) know that I’m not afraid to go to Rwanda for any safety reasons. But I also felt that I needed to post this update as we get below the 90 day mark before I embark on this journey. 

Crime Map of my Uni neighbourhood.

I remain confident that I am of no increased insecurity than that of my Scarborough home, (see the following for substantiation: the finding a gun in a parking lot incident, the numerous flashers on campus, the time I heard a gunshot and had to run and hide and call the police while I was alone, men following myself and my friends, being catcalled, finding my landlord in my apartment, etc). I really think Kigali would have to work its tush off to top that. So that’s not the issue.

The ‘issue’ is really left to my anxiety – she’s a real heavyweight champion in inspiring panic and unease in me. I’m afraid of a few things: being desperately lonely, getting sick, and not being comfortable in such a different space.

I find it easy to make friends, but also find that I come to loneliness quite easily. My ‘people’ mean everything to me. “You really call your mum almost every day when you’re at University?” you’re damn right I do! Not because I miss her, or I need to go home…although sometimes when times are hard, that’s exactly what it is, but because she’s who I want to talk to, and check in with, and with my dad working shift work, the person I have spoken to after I got home for the day, almost every single day of my life. And with my closest friends, Karma, Nashwa, and Sara, we update each-other on our days numerous times every single day. When we were in person together in Toronto, I was with them for a couple of hours every day. And there’s my Nan, who I call at least once a week when I’m at school, because I feel guilty I can’t come see her, and hangout, and gab, and sit in the sun on the porch with her, but also because it’s part of my routine and my grounding myself to my

‘home’ life, when the city life I dislike gets tough. And I have tons of these examples throughout my life. I am a relatively private person – something you won’t glean from my love to chat and the way I am currently posting on this blog as if it’s my own personal diary. But I’m scared the wifi won’t work, and I won’t see my people’s faces for a long while. And I won’t be able to build my own network there for myself to cope when times get tough, which I know they will, because my life will still have all the ups and downs it has here, in Rwanda. And that when I come home from work, I will just be stuck alone, in a far far away place, wanting my people to be there with me. 

As for not liking my job, I think that’s pretty run of the mill. What if it’s boring? What if my boss doesn’t like me? What if I’m totally inept? What if it’s nothing like the job description? What if I feel like all I do is work while the beautiful countryside watches me waste my time indoors, looking at files? The usual. 

The grocery order of the sickly and weak.

The sickness….this is perhaps Anxiety’s most impressive manifestation. My illness related fears are Anxiety’s Picasso, the pièce de résistance, if you will. You see – I never have been afraid to be sick. I was the one telling her gagging friend in the bathroom at the party to just “make yourself throw up, you’ll feel better, I swear”. But in March my Uni house was struck with the Norovirus, which if you are unfamiliar, made me and my roommates feel like the plague would’ve been a preferable trade, for about 4 days. I’d like to offer a moment of appreciation for my roommate Jahnavi’s boyfriend Xav, who kindly was the deliverer of barf bags, Gatorade, and Tylenol in our time of need. Because of what was the most humbling weekend+ of my life, I’ve since been unreasonably afraid of getting sick. It’s not like when I get off the plane in Kigali I expect someone to cough in my face, leading to the most horrific illness known to man, but I do feel like I tend to catch what my friends have in terms of sickness, and my immune system is about to head to somewhere completely unfamiliar. And circling back to the aforementioned attachments to people in my life, I’m scared to be sick alone. Of course there’s hospitals, and good healthcare, and even a plane back to Toronto if it came down to it. But damn, puking alone in a city where nobody is there to make me feel better? That scares the shit out of me….let’s hope not literally.  

The last one is another relatively fixable one. But sometimes, when I’m feeling down, and I crawl into bed, or eat my favorite food, or pet my dog, or find comfort in a specific way, I have this creeping feeling…what if when I get into my bed in Rwanda after a hard day, it doesn’t envelope around me nicely? What if none of the food I crave is available to me when I am homesick? What will I do when I come home and not even the dog comes to the door to greet me? And honestly, I think this feeling is going to happen a lot. I think it’s only natural. But I think this might be the most kick-in-the-teeth, raisin-in-your-cookie, extra-f-you, for me some days. And hey, what will I do? Cry. And then move on. Because despite the bad press it gets, crying helps. 

Seventeen-year-old Kate, who thought she was “too dumb” to get into UofT, but that travelling the world might be fun some day.

I honestly think crying, talking to someone I care about over text, and then moving on will likely be my approach a lot. Of course I hope to be busy with little getting-to-see-Rwanda activities a lot, but this is my truth. I wanted to share because other students who’ve had blogs have kept it more sterile and professional, and that’s great. But it’s not my desire. I’m not quick to feel embarrassed or uncomfortable in myself, and I want to be honest in my documentation of this journey. I’m scared, like really scared. But the only thing scarier to me than going to Rwanda, is not going. I owe it to myself to go and do this thing that I’ve been working for since I was 16. And I need to go because doing things you’re afraid of is good for you, even when it might feel like it isn’t. So yes: I am super afraid. But I’m way more excited. 

That’s that on that.

K8

Rwanda: What’s it like?

So now that you’ve read the About section (or didn’t, that’s your business) explaining how I have found myself moving to Rwanda in just a few short months, lets get into some background on the location itself.

Honestly, when I was in the phase of applying to move to Rwanda, I remember googling the country. More specifically I remember googling something along the lines of “Where is Rawanda”. So please don’t think I am an expert – I have yet to even step foot on the continent. However, I do consider myself a pretty diligent person when it comes to planning – so I have spent probably upwards of forty hours researching the country through articles, vlogs, and have recently even purchased a travel guide. So – here I will amalgamate what I know so far. This will largely be compiled from online encyclopedias and Philip Brigg’s book “Rwanda: With Eastern Congo”.

Land and Climate

As you can see on the maps below, Rwanda is a very tiny country. It is less than half the size of Scotland. And despite it’s close proximity to the equator (which initially scared the living daylights out of me – someone who constantly feels like it’s “too hot”) it remains a pretty awesome temperature year round with every monthly average falling between 24.6-27.6c. It does however get it’s fair share of rain with the annual average rainfall being between 900-1,600mm, mainly in the rainy seasons from March-May and from October-December.

The country is called “Le Pays des Mille Collines” or in English, “The Land of a Thousand Hills” because of it’s gorgeous grassy hills and mountains which sprawl throughout the country. There are even some volcanoes! However, these mountains are not the alps and remain pretty modest in height – the elevation ranges from 1,000 to 4,500m above sea level (about 800m shorter than the Alps and 400m shorter than the Rockies, for reference).

Rwanda is made up of both tropical forest and of savannah (yes, the kind of savannah for safaris!) and has a national park in every corner of the country. Volcanoes National Park in the northwest, Nyungwe in the southwest (this is where people come to see the infamous Silverback Gorilla, 60% of the entire species lives in Rwanda), Akagera in the east, and Gishwati-Mukura in the west. In the centre, between all of these parks is the capital, where I will be living, called Kigali. To the west, there is also Lake Kivu, which is one of Africa’s “Great Lakes”.

People

The population of Rwanda is around 12 million people. Most of which are Christian, with the predominant denomination being Roman Catholic. And in the country, the languages are, by order of most to least spoken, Kinyarwanda, French, English, and Swahili.

Practical Stuff

The time difference between Kigali and Toronto is pretty big, with Kigali being 6 hours ahead. Although this seems a bit challenging for communication, I actually find this to be pretty managable with my friend who lives in Lebanon, which is 7 hours ahead. Because when I get up in the morning, she is finishing her afternoon, and when I am finishing my work day, she is just about to head to bed. So although it is a big time difference, it is a pretty good ratio of time for communicating back and forth – you still are largely awake at the same time!

As for money, 1 CAD is equal to ~818 RWF (Rwandan Francs). However, I feel obligated to remind people that this does not mean I can buy a house in Rwanda for just a couple Canadian bills – the entire economy adjusts accordingly, however I do recognize I have significantly higher buying power in Rwanda than in Toronto.

Is it Safe

I get this question a lot. Actually, I don’t – unfortunately, most people automatically assume that Rwanda is inherently unsafe and preach to me about the dangers of traveling as a young woman to a faraway place. And I am no idiot – traveling in any capacity comes with risk, and of course, violence against women is not something to be ignored. But to brush Rwanda off as somewhere with incredible risk is to throw the baby out with the bathwater just because sometimes traveling can be unsafe. So much so that recently, Rwanda was rated the 6th safest country in the world for solo travelers, and although the global memory of the country is marred by the horrific history of the 1994 genocide – the country has been a silent superstar in social development ever since, and that unfortunately has gone unreported to the rest of the world. So “is it safe?” I’m not answering that. The assumption and assigning of “safety” or “non-safety” of each country is often largely rooted in racism and orientalism that has no place in my life or opinion on the country. But no, I am not afraid for my well-being in the country as a result of increased rates of violence, war, disease, or anything of that nature.

History

For many Canadians who lived through the 90s, they unfortunately associate Rwanda only with Roméo Dallaire and the Rwandan Genocide. Although this is a reductive view of the country, it is an important history to understand. Because of this, I do not feel well suited to correct this. Instead I would like to point you to the following resources on the subject:

Unfortunately I wasn’t able to find resources that are led by Rwandans and survivors themselves and illustrate the entire history, this is something I hope to remedy and update soon.

Conclusion

This has been all of the information I feel that is most common for people to wonder about. Leave a comment below if there is anything else I should research and add to this page. For now lets consider this a living document that can be edited and updated as we go along.

I also have this playlist on youtube that I put all of my favorite vlogs into: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAsaHuZjPwVv98IuUamU9RCNkyDsgCuld

And of course, if you have been to Rwanda, or are Rwandan yourself and feel anything here is inaccurate, let me know and we’ll get this page straightened up!

That’s all for now,

K8

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